20 July 2024

It’s  the weekend, and we can all play together. A jaunt to Rousay is planned, which will incorporate a bike ride to the Skaill Farm archaeological dig open day, the Midhowe Cairn, and Day 1 of the Rousay Regatta. Package deal.

We ride along an undulating coastal road with great views across to the Mainland and Eynhallow (me on a hire bike, the others on “old bangers” lent by Vicky). Eynhallow once had a monastery. I like the way Wikipedia says it is “presently unoccupied”.

Midhowe Cairn, the final resting place for a Neolithic community, lay undisturbed as a large grassy knoll, until it was excavated in 1932. See https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/midhowe-chambered-cairn/

The grassy surrounds of the Cairn are perfect for a picnic lunch; and the extraordinary rock platform below is a seductive launchpad for a quick swim. Once again, the immersion in the chilly North Sea is the highlight of my day. The frisson of cold is becoming quite addictive. 

Over to the Skaill project. See https://www.orkney.com/events/skaill-farm-excavation – a ruined 19th century farm on top of a Norse building. Coming to the end of the short archaeological season is hard in some ways. A recent excavation has revealed a much more extensive structure, but time is running out.

Back at the pier a good percentage of the island, and a significant number from Egilsay,  are sitting around the car park drinking beer in the sun. I count off the Egilsay folk I have met so far:

Jansen, who works at the RSPB-managed farm (English but grew up on the island)

Margaret and Dave from my first day (English)

Vanessa (English), Jansen’s mother, has 10 children 

Angry Debbie from yesterday, who runs cattle; plus daughter (Scottish), Vicky’s G & T pal

Alison, who lives at the ochre house, and James  (English)

Christie, a friend of Vicky (English)

Edwin and Ula, who live just above Margaret and Dave (English)

From conversations:

Vanessa with 10 children, homeschooling, meant only four children in the Egilsay school and accelerated its closure. Children now get 7 o’clock boat and back at 5 pm. Sometimes stay over if the ferry doesn’t run. 

Average islander age going up.

Hoarding. Particularly in relation to food – everyone admitted their freezers are rammed.

We don’t like to run out of food! (During Covid no boats berthed for a 3-month period.) And it occurs to me that, although the reasons are completely different, I am in mild food stress this trip, just as I was on Rum in February. (Rum:,the budget wasn’t managed and so we ended up over spending and then under shopping. This time it is because I am reluctant to spend up to 4 hours to get to Kirkhall and back to top up my supplies.)

It’s the first time the regatta has taken place since 2016. To an outsider it seems very low-key: people content to hang out with not much else going on. No fairground, bouncy castle, amplified music etc. All very simple and pleasant but greatly helped by this being the hottest day of my trip: 16°.

Today’s excitement is the home-made vessel  race. There are just two entries – apparently fewer than in the past because the “non-motorised craft only” rule didn’t inspire. We move down to the jetty to watch the two teams getting ready. There is a clear distinction between Team A (dyed hair, tattoos, fishnet tights and skimpy shorts, especially the girl-boys) versus Team B (tidy ponytails tied back and sensible long leggings). In the race around a buoy Team A wins by an easy margin. Both teams earn warm cheers as they limp back into the harbour.

Back at the house Stanley is missing Vicky, mewing pitifully when she once again sees it’s only me in the kitchen. I wish I could tell her she only has to wait another three days.