27 July 2024

At 7:45 am the sound of a hairdryer blasts me awake, followed by exaggerated whispering – WTF.

At the ferry terminal I chance sitting on the grass, remembering how I clocked 13 ticks, one day here in 2017. The spellbinding view and excellent coffee from The Sandwich Station café are perfect companions.



The traffic queue for the Kintyre ferry is crazy long. And my high-season snapshot of Arran shows a similar dynamic in Brodick. And again in Lamlash.


The “Holy Isle Ferry”, now run by Grant Ross, was rebranded as “Lamlash Cruises” some years ago. But there are a number of changes since I was here in June 2023. By the pier are picnic tables and a shelter with colourful posters advertising a range of cruises, and other activities on the island. Grant’s business has morphed from service to Holy Isle to cruise entrepreneur. If it suits him, volunteers can “piggyback” on the day trips – which are now a structured 4-hour visit. He calls these “barnacle runs” – but it is a precarious arrangement. 



On the island, I am not surprised to find my arrival is unexpected. The Centre is going through another change of leadership and concomitant shaky communication. But I have a bed and there is always work to be done. So all will be well.

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